The ocean across from the Blue Ocean restaurant in Legian
I was going to meet an old friend at a place in Legian called Blue Ocean. To be truthful, I had resisted coming down from my ivory tower in Ubud to Bali’s seedy underbelly—the strip comprised of Seminyak, Legian and Kuta. Just like there are Republicans and Democrats in the US, or the forces of good and evil, so I regard the beach in Bali’s south more of a living hell than the paradise you’re promised in the tourist brochures. The walk through the maze of Legian’s streets only seemed to confirm that notion. Touts accosted me, disco music blasted at me, and taxis honked at me. Then, as I made my way through tanned tourists and throngs of parked motorbikes along the sidewalk I saw the surf crashing on the beach with people tumbling around in it—the world’s greatest washing machine, capable of cleansing commercial and esthetic sins in mere minutes with suds of nature’s power…
My fantasies of biblical justice were interrupted when toward the end of the promenade the Blue Ocean restaurant announced itself with a lighted sign, conveying a retro feeling with its logo of a swaying palm tree and an old-timey passenger airplane against a big yellow sun, reminding me of the restaurant’s roots in 1969 and how romantic tourism must have been back then, finding a largely deserted beach and only a few hippies.
With that thought I ventured up the single step that leads up to the restaurant’s terrace where umbrellas provide protection from the sun, and tables and chairs on a rigid grid make the most of the space, extending far into the back, where the state-of-the-art kitchen is located.
I sat down at a table that was generous in size and when I saw food arriving at other tables I knew why: the portions were generous as well.
Surrounded by the usual menage of international suspects and conspicuously placed area tags with countries’ names on them it came as no surprise that the menu caters to all corners of the earth.
I ordered a Bintang. It came with a frosted mug and its own Blue Ocean bottle cover, a nice touch that seemed effective in keeping my beer cold longer, and a nice souvenir for those that otherwise forget where they got drunk and in the mood to conceive their unexpected offspring.
Soon, my friend arrived with his entourage and after catching up on current affairs and blaming America for all the ills of the world we ordered from the menu.
The two dishes that stood out among my table mates that night were the Indonesian Seafood Basket, which had a nice choice of fresh grilled fish, the grilled snapper, and the gado gado which was a work of culinary art with braided vegetables and stuffed cabbage. Seafood crepes and steaks, each attractively arranged on the plate, were also being consumed cheerfully at our table. For desert arrived a chocolate mousse with a dollop of whipped cream, instantly becoming a favorite, which I proved by ordering another one—that I handcuffed as if I were Dick Cheney and sent to jail like Scooter Libby because desert that addictive shouldn’t be legal, then pardoned it like George W Bush because evil in me conspired to see it free.
With beer and wine in hand the atmosphere was light with laughter and not only at our table. Friendly, efficient, and busy, the wait staff never needed more than a nod and a wink to refill our drinks. It was obvious, Blue Ocean is a well-run restaurant where large numbers of people do not bog down culinary care. The fact that the two owners were present, amiably mingling with the guests may have much to do with it.
While I observed the goings on I also noticed the effective use of Balinese art and artistry in the decor, such as the prominent row of stone statues that extend all the way along the longest wall to the rear, and the odd idea of tacking paintings against the ceiling. Perhaps it’s the mix of styles, flavors, and the public that bring coziness to this pretenseless establishment. That, and the beach right across the street.
If you’re for any reason at all resisting going to Legian, but appreciate a good meal, nice atmosphere, and perhaps need the excuse for hanging with an old friend, Blue Ocean may just provide the argument to win you over.
