I was going to meet an old friend at a place in Legian called Blue Ocean. To be truthful, I had resisted coming down from my ivory tower in Ubud to Bali’s seedy underbelly—the strip comprised of Seminyak, Legian and Kuta. Just like there are Republicans and Democrats in the US, or the forces of [...]
The building of resorts around Ubud is approaching that of a frenzy. Not sure if that’s a good thing, as with every emergence a piece of coveted landscape disappears, but at least one resort has taken an interesting approach by aiming to not only integrate the building structure into the landscape by use of “green [...]
If, by chance, someone alerts you to the existence of Mangga Madu (Mango Honey) Restaurant in Ubud then consider yourself lucky, as you are about to discover one of those off-the-beaten-track gems that cater equally to local as well as international sensibilities with a menu and an ambiance that is at once unpretentious and appealing. [...]
It’s with some reluctance that I write about my latest find, a hidden gem that perfectly embodies Bali’s charm: Yellow Flower Café, an organic restaurant atop Campuhan, only reachable on foot or by motorbike. Once you have made your way up the ridge on which the Yellow Flower Café is perched you become pleasantly aware [...]
In Bali you don’t always know who you are dealing with as a foreign buyer. Most stores that advertise “made to order” do not actually have direct access and will employ one or more middlemen to get your order realized. Suffice to say, that means an increased price and an often questionable result. Suhendro Hardwood [...]
Suamba Car Service is known and trusted by many of Bali’s long term residents in the Ubud area. Suamba’s vans are new, safe, clean, and comfortable. Suamba himself, or one of his drivers, will accompany you on your travel around the island, or on your trip to airport, ferry, restaurant, or store. Suamba’s English is [...]
Bali-Now informs you about the beautiful, spiritual island of Bali in an informal way. We love it here and are not shy about sharing our honest opinions. We like to promote local businesses run by nice, sincere folks that aim to preserve the “real” Bali, and we help those that otherwise have a hard time [...]
> ©2011 Rudolf Helder To the reader of these notes it’s clear by now that I engage in an inordinate amount of walking compared to my previous sedentary lifestyle. It’s not that I never walked, but it was mostly a basic utilitarian motion used to shorten the distance between myself and my car, and any [...]
> ©2011 Rudolf Helder The expats in Bali are a mixed lot, as you can expect. I’ve only met a few so far, but in general they appear a bit unkempt and covered with a layer of fine dust that over time has nestled in their pores, adding a thin gray filter to their appearance [...]
> ©2011 Rudolf HelderSee more pictures of Ubud sidewalks here. At first the people of Ubud did not notice anything different. There were suddenly fewer tourists. Not really suddenly, but who misses a few in the beginning? It was when a whole bus of tourists went missing that people started talking and even that took [...]
> ©2009 Rudolf Helder The girl that gave him a foot massage and pedicure was young, maybe 24, lean and with supple skin. The way she sat, in the way of the locals, more like a squat on a low kind of upturned bucket, he could see some belly fat which surprised him considering the [...]
> ©1994 Rudolf Helder Made was talking to Wayan when Sari called her for a foot massage. Sari’d just given some guy a haircut. Military style. Really the only one she knew how to. Foreigners liked it because it was hot, temperature-wise that is. This guy no different and all the same to her—the new [...]
> ©1997 “Fallen” by Rudolf Helder As I write this I’m having a foot massage. I hesitated writing “Balinese” foot massage, because whatever that would be, that’s not what this is. I’ve had better in Thailand and Vietnam. I can’t blame the young man pretending doing his best right now with stealthy glances at the [...]
> ©2011 Rudolf Helder Listen. No, really, do yourself a solid with this one. Listen for a little while to nature itself. Mother Earth it’s called. Spaceship Earth. Call it what you want, the void outside the window. Turn off any audio equipment, the air conditioner, the friggin’ fridge, your freakin’ phone, and listen. It’s [...]
> ©2011 Rudolf Helder What have I learned these first few days in Bali? First, the people are just wonderful, which I knew and which has drawn me to this island for a long time. They smile at every opportunity and I’m smiling back. Almost forgot how to, what a shame.What I haven’t forgotten after [...]
> ©2011 Rudolf Helder Today I’m “sakit.” Sick. Don’t know why. I just am. A few things may have contributed. Leaving, as the French say, “est mourir un peu,” and they’re not talking about “the little death.”In my case, the last month in Honolulu had been exhausting. “Aren’t you excited to go to Bali?” asked [...]
> ©2011 Rudolf Helder The first surprise I had in Bali was one that sent me straight back to the airport building I had just walked out of. Apparently the money I had kept from my previous visit was no longer current and one of the money changers whose soliciting I had earlier waved off [...]
